When to Plant

Peas are one of the first crops planted in late winter or early spring. They’re pretty cold-hardy, even tolerating some light frosts. Here in NY zone 7, now (mid to late March or early April, depending on the weather) is the perfect time to get peas in the ground. St. Patrick’s Day is the traditional pea-planting day.

Peas will likely slow or stop production when the heat of the summer arrives, so an early start is important for a good crop in late May or early June.

Alternatively, peas can be planted in late summer or early fall for a fall harvest, especially in places with mild winters. In the northeast, I have not had much success with fall-planted peas.

Variety Selection

There are quite a few types of peas to choose from, and there are many varieties of these types. My favorite type is sugar snap. The pod and peas are edible, sweet, juicy, and delicious. I also like to include some snow peas, which are flatter and still completely edible, for making stir-fries. I’m least familiar with shelling peas, but I am growing a few this year. The peas inside are sweet, plump, and delicious, while the pod is starchy and not really edible.

This year, I planted mostly Sugar Magnolia Snap Peas, which are a cool purple color. They also have beautiful pink and purple blooms.

***Do Not Confuse Sweet Pea Flowers (Lathyrus odoratus) with Vegetable Peas!

All parts of sweet pea flowers (DIFFERENT from vegetable peas), which I’m also growing, are toxic. Be sure to separate plants if growing both, as they can look similar. I have sweet peas in my front yard and vegetable peas in my backyard.

Planting Peas

It is generally recommended to plant peas directly in the ground “as soon as the ground can be worked.” I never understood what that phrase meant. You’re good to go if the ground isn’t frozen solid. I like to soak peas in room-temperature water overnight before planting for an extra head start. You could end up with some unwanted fermentation and decomposition of the peas if they soak for over 24 hours, so stick to 4-8 hours to be safe.

Crop Rotation

It’s a good idea to rotate (switch planting areas) for most crops from year to year. Crop rotation helps limit pest and disease issues and helps limit the depletion of nutrients in the soil.

Spacing

Peas tolerate growing close to one another, even climbing on one another with tendrils. Space peas 1.5-2 inches (3.8-5 cm) apart. Thinning is not necessary. I thinned one year and wound up with an underwhelming crop.

Trellis

Peas are climbing plants that hold onto trellises with their tendrils. Be sure to install your trellis before or at planting time. Pea plants are very fragile, and you risk damaging or breaking plants when installing a trellis after they spout. I like to use fallen tree branches after a storm. They’re free, and the branches create different avenues for the peas to climb up. I also use chicken wire and plastic fencing from the garden center.

Can Peas be Started Indoors?

Yes, but direct, outdoor sowing is recommended. Last year, I started everything indoors after birds, rabbits, squirrels, and/or slugs ate several rounds of peas. After hardening off, the transplanted peas did just fine. It’s a good idea to start some backups inside in case something stops by for dinner.

This year, I am using floating row covers to A) protect plants from extreme weather and B) keep the pests at bay.

Harvest

In about 70 days, give or take, depending on the variety, you’ll have peas. When pulling peas off of the vine, be sure to have one hand on the pea and one hand on the plant to avoid yanking the plant with the pea. I found that out the hard way, so now you don’t have to. Alternatively, you can cut peas off with a clean scissor or your thumbnail.

Harvest young for the best flavor and texture for snow peas and snap peas. For shelling peas, harvest when 4-7 peas are visibly plump.

Common Problems and Solutions

Peas are quite easy to grow compared to most other crops. I do have a few tips to help with some common issues:

1. Use floating row covers (especially early) to keep critters away from peas.
2. Plant early. Late spring heat can slow or halt production.
3. Treat plants with neem oil or a weak milk or baking soda spray if you see powdery mildew (powdery white fungus on leaves forming with excess moisture). Powdery mildew is mostly an issue in areas where days are warm and nights are cold, leading to dew. Avoid overhead watering if at all possible. Sugar Magnolia Peas, my main variety this year, has some powdery mildew resistance due to its growth habit, allowing for increased airflow.
4. Root rot: pea roots can rot when planted in dense, compact soil and/or when planted too close together. Be sure to amend the bed with compost and other organic matter to increase nutrition and drainage.